On the left you see the typical plastic strapping that comes around boxes that are shipped. Most people cut the straps off, and throw them away. But in PNG, one man's trash is another man's treasure. (but as my son says 'Sometime's that other man sees it as trash too dad').
Instead of throwing out the strapping, when I come across it, I keep it and give it to our PNG friend Iri. She makes bilums with them. (The plastic is the spine/base/beginning point of the bilum) She makes them during her lunch break, or whenever she is sitting down waiting. There is a lot of waiting in PNG. Waiting for rides (PMV's) waiting to sell your garden produce at market, or just sitting around talking. The difference between this hobby, and say something like cross stitch, is that the Bilum is something that can be gifted or sold.
They sell for around $25. Each region of PNG is known for their color schemes and make. Some put frills on the side (called Bilas) some put lettering in them. I even know someone who had been their favorite Baseball team logo stitched in.
The bilum is a remarkable bag. It's colorful, but also very strong, and very flexible. They stretch to hold everything you put in them, and then reform to their original size when empty.
The bilum is often given as a gift of honor and respect. At a recent Bible Dedication, the ladies who had given 20 years of their lives, each received 8 bilums as gifts. The number of bilums, who they came from, the decoration (bilas) the color, all give measures of gratitude and respect.
Practically every PNGian you see has some sort of bilum with them. (some carry bags woven from banana leaves or other such leaves but often these bags are more like suitcases than daily carry-alls)
There are two things which challenge the American male idea of sexuality in PNG. The first is that male friends, hold hands. (men and women don't hold hands.... this cultural moray is changing rapidly, but traditionally only men hold hand with men, and women with women). They hold hands while they talk. If you reach out to shake someone's hand in PNG, be prepared to not let go for a while.. (long past the time that would make most American men uncomfortable). They walk hand in hand down the street as they talk.
The second, is the carrying of a bilum. It may strike an American man at first, like a purse. I told myself I could never get used to carrying one, daily. And I don't. But I did get used to carrying one when I had things that didn't fit in my pockets.
I was given one, and I purchased one to commemorate a hike I took through the highlands. Everyone knows that bilum is a highlands bilum because of it's color and style.
I use mine to transport tools, often. If I need to do a quick run up the hill on my ATV, I can throw my hammer, drill, screwdrivers in there, and throw it over my shoulder and I'm gone. When you drive a motorcycle or a quad, a bilum is a useful thing.
The other day, I had my bilum over my shoulder but under my coat to keep it's contents dry. Someone happened to begin a conversation with me and said 'I'd never be caught dead carrying a bilum it makes me feel......' at which time they noticed I had one over my shoulder... and they stopped talking immediately.
I laughed pretty good at that.
It is funny the things you grow accustomed to. Things that used to rub me the wrong way about this culture, I've since learned to love and work into my daily routine. Words I use forgetting they aren't English, foods I eat that used to make me queasy.
So, I do carry a bilum (not daily but whenever I need to), and I am used to holding hands with men, and I do eat beef crackers, and I do say 'maski'. And I'm not ashamed of it, nor do I feel wierded out by it.
In fact, I rather think the bilum is a nice thing to have. I no longer carry a wallet, or a watch, but I do carry a bilum from time to time.
